Clovis Degrave, manages three successful Luxembourg establishments, and Pauline Michelin, pastry chef at the Chef’s Table concept, competing internationally with her Japanese-inspired Luxembourgish dessert creation.
How did your culinary journey lead you to Luxembourg’s competitive restaurant scene?
CG: My path started with hotel management school and a bachelor’s degree in management and marketing. Plans for a master’s in Nice changed dramatically when offered the chef position at Le Sud restaurant. This opportunity from Christophe Petrat, Steve Darnay, and Jean-Claude Colbart marked a decisive moment. Later, during my head chef tenure at Brasserie Schumann, I met Aline, and together, we launched our venture, acquiring Hostellerie du Grünewald in 2017. Our portfolio expanded to include three establishments: Hostellerie du Grünewald, the Chef’s Table, and Maison B, formerly Boss Café. With a team of 70 employees, each restaurant operates with dedicated head chefs, ensuring specialized focus rather than stretching myself across venues.
What unique challenges does the Luxembourg restaurant industry present?
CG: Single-location restaurants can thrive, but expansion demands specialized positions, increasing operational costs. Growth requires support in marketing, human resources, and financial management. My staffing approach prioritizes employee wellbeing with continuous shifts, eliminating unpaid breaks. Staff work morning shifts from 6:00 AM to 2:30 PM or evening shifts from 2:30 PM to 11:00 PM. The Chef’s Table operates evening-only, with a team of nine serving just 20 guests, ensuring exceptional experiences but requiring meticulous financial management. A well-equipped, clean kitchen, reasonable schedules, and a positive culture are crucial for attracting skilled professionals like Pauline.
“Professionally, our main goal is to develop and stabilize our businesses. The hospitality sector faces many challenges.”
Could you describe your competition dessert that celebrates both traditions?
PM: My culinary background includes experience at Le Montrachet, Appelini-Montrachet, Trois Michelin, Royal-Le-Place d’Armes in England, and Villa Renéalic in Alsace before relocating to Luxembourg in 2021. Joining Clovis and Aline for the Chef’s Festival opening in August 2023 was an exciting chapter, now extending to desserts at Maison B. Clovis encouraged me to compete in Osaka’s Universal Expo under the “Doki Doki” theme, meaning heartbeat in Japanese. The challenge was to merge Luxembourgish and Japanese traditions in one dessert. Local honey sourced from our restaurant’s beekeeper formed the base. Bamkuch, a Luxembourgish cake, was soaked in sake for the Japanese touch, while sudachi, a Japanese citrus fruit, added brightness. A honeycomb tuile with honey and sake completed the creation.
